München, Deutschland

Winter Solstice was a memorable occasion this year, despite the lack of snowy weather here in the Alps. The plan was to hike up to the cliffside above Kufstein (to the spot from where the Bavarians shot cannons at the castle and took over three hundred years ago) and celebrate the return of the sun a la the Celts with a big 'ol fire and thermoses of Glüwein (a yummy libation of hot spiced wine) with a big group of friends. As the day grew into evening, and the wet rain continued to melt away the snow, more and more people decided it was not a night for being in the woods. The wood was purchased and the Glüwein made, however, so four of us trekked up the slushy slope with two umbrellas and built a fire. The rum and tea and Gluwein, along with the warmth of the fire and layers of clothing, convinced us it wasn't raining anymore, and we had a grand time. We talked of running around naked in the woods (purely for the sake of celebration, of course), but I decided I was wearing too many layers of clothing to bother. Klaus and Anders performed a rendition of a solstice dance. Hiking in the woods at night is pure joy!

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After a week of relaxation, hikes in the snow, and lots of chocolate, cookies, and schnapps, I decided it was time to escape to Munich for a few days. I caught the train, and anticipated finally trying out some of my newly learned Deutsch without the help of my native speaking friend...

Two days of walking in Munich brought some nice sights: two traditional Christmas markets with little wooden ornaments and creatures made of moss and bark, streets lined with pastel painted and variously architected apartment buildings, the Glockenspiel with its circling Bavarian figurines and the medieval courtyard of the Gothic church where I drank Glüwein, designer stores and their interesting window displays, a bakery that served up yumminy cinnamony marzipan walnut bread, a multi-storied wooden Chinese tower with a spiral staircase, beer and saurkraut down down down the stairs at a traditional Keller (beer cellar), and the Viktuelmarket with more cheese than I have ever seen in one place!

Munich is an interesting confluence of Bavarian and Catholic tradition, a very-present modernity marked by trendy restaurants, 21st century glass and wood, and remnants of '50s futurism and mod design. The scene was a pleasant bustling, with the sincere joy of Christmas spirit. Somewhere in there, the Turkish minority fits in, with its kebab shops, fruit stands, and Muslim women, heads covered, pushing around children in large baby buggies. All in all, it was a pleasant few days in 'the big city.'