25 December 2008

Frohe Weihnachten!

Christmas was lovely here in Tirol. They celebrate on the 24th here, and Baby Jesus brings the gifts, not Santa Claus. In fact, Santa Claus does not exist here (his predecessor St. N
iklaus is celebrated on December 6th). I was assigned the task of decorating the Christmas tree at the Mayr family home, and happily did so, with gold, red, and silver balls, little chocolate liquior bottles, and straw angels and stars. I was happily surprised to find similar ornaments as those of my own family, like the old tin birds with metal clips attached so it looks like they are purched on the branches. Meanwhile I enjoyed some local white wine and attempted at carrying out a conversation in beginner's German and beginner's English.

Dinner was delicious: we ate salad with local pumkin seed oil dressing, a Bavarian radish dish, almond snow peas (my own concoction), followed by local potatoes, cheeses, salmon, and pork sausages that we each cooked on this nifty contraption called a raclette. Dessert was vanilla creme pudding with blood oranges. Klaus's parents and brother were very kind and fun, and the challenge of communication actualy made the night even better!

München, Deutschland

Winter Solstice was a memorable occasion this year, despite the lack of snowy weather here in the Alps. The plan was to hike up to the cliffside above Kufstein (to the spot from where the Bavarians shot cannons at the castle and took over three hundred years ago) and celebrate the return of the sun a la the Celts with a big 'ol fire and thermoses of Glüwein (a yummy libation of hot spiced wine) with a big group of friends. As the day grew into evening, and the wet rain continued to melt away the snow, more and more people decided it was not a night for being in the woods. The wood was purchased and the Glüwein made, however, so four of us trekked up the slushy slope with two umbrellas and built a fire. The rum and tea and Gluwein, along with the warmth of the fire and layers of clothing, convinced us it wasn't raining anymore, and we had a grand time. We talked of running around naked in the woods (purely for the sake of celebration, of course), but I decided I was wearing too many layers of clothing to bother. Klaus and Anders performed a rendition of a solstice dance. Hiking in the woods at night is pure joy!

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After a week of relaxation, hikes in the snow, and lots of chocolate, cookies, and schnapps, I decided it was time to escape to Munich for a few days. I caught the train, and anticipated finally trying out some of my newly learned Deutsch without the help of my native speaking friend...

Two days of walking in Munich brought some nice sights: two traditional Christmas markets with little wooden ornaments and creatures made of moss and bark, streets lined with pastel painted and variously architected apartment buildings, the Glockenspiel with its circling Bavarian figurines and the medieval courtyard of the Gothic church where I drank Glüwein, designer stores and their interesting window displays, a bakery that served up yumminy cinnamony marzipan walnut bread, a multi-storied wooden Chinese tower with a spiral staircase, beer and saurkraut down down down the stairs at a traditional Keller (beer cellar), and the Viktuelmarket with more cheese than I have ever seen in one place!
Munich is an interesting confluence of Bavarian and Catholic tradition, a very-present modernity marked by trendy restaurants, 21st century glass and wood, and remnants of '50s futurism and mod design. The scene was a pleasant bustling, with the sincere joy of Christmas spirit. Somewhere in there, the Turkish minority fits in, with its kebab shops, fruit stands, and Muslim women, heads covered, pushing around children in large baby buggies. All in all, it was a pleasant few days in 'the big city.'

14 December 2008

Castles and Snow

I arrived in Kufstein, Austria yesterday morning, after a mediocre overnight train ride from Paris to Munich. It is snowy here, in the Alps, but the winter has only just begun and it is actually warmer than Paris. It is hard to believe I have only been here two days, as I have already done so much! My friend Klaus, who I met in Istanbul, has been a great and welcoming host.

We hiked up the sledding trail to view the sunset over the town of Kufstein, it's castle, and the distant snowy mountain peaks. This area is a very popular place for tourists and for snowboarding, skiing, and sledding competitions. The mountains are gorgeous! Last night we went out with Klaus's friends for a birthday party (damn do those Austrians drink!). Much of the conversation was in the Tirolian dialect of German, but people were often kind enough to translate for me in English, and I was heartily welcomed into joining into the jovial laughter of the circle of friends. They are very proud to be Tirolian, and I could imagine this crowd at a heavy metal concert, though they are all sweethearts. We went around the table telling what animal we would be, and it turns out we are all predators.... . I learned of a tradition here where men dress up as demons to scare winter away. Apparently there is a large bonfire, and the men carry large branches, wear large bells, and drink heavily; it can get a bit violent, but seems like a really fascinating tradition. We will spend Winter Solstice with a fire in the forest and New Year's up in the mountains at a cow farm.

Today we drove to a nearby village to take a walk around a frozen lake. Steamy clouds rose towards the sun from the lake surface, and tree branches were covered in geometrical ice crystals. I love the quant traditional architecture of the buildings here! The houses, which I think I would call lodges (sometimes decorated with deer antlers), have carved wooden balconies, which actually call to my mind the wood design in Nepal. On the drive from Munchen, I spotted towers with fantastical domed roofs. There are two castles in Kufstein, one which I can see from Klaus's balcony. I will explore them soon...

10 December 2008

Paris encore

"Between the religion d'amour and the latist 'ism... one had better ride on a carrousel all day."
- D.H. Lawrence on Paris from Women in Love

I was amazed as I watched the transformation of my ability with French over the two weeks of language study in Montpellier. As a Colombian woman I met here in Paris says, to learn a language, you really have to be forced to use it for communication. I can only imagine how much months of the program would improve one's language. Nonetheless, I was happy to leave Montpellier and head back to Paris. I do miss the delicious pastries from my favorite boulangerie, and speaking French so much...

Paris is wonderful; it's streets and metro ways full of history and interesting people. Montmarte, famous for being the artists' hang back in the day, is my favorite area, even with the tourism. There are cute cafes, funky boutiques, sweet little stone streets and steps that wind up and down and around the hill of Montmarte. (Nearby are streets and streets of fabric, button, ribbon, and costume stores!) Some of the window displays here are fantastical pieces of hand-crafted voila-ing behind glass, colorful bragging about the goods within. I have been very aware of the fashion here, much of which is pretty conservative and normal, if fancy. But there are also great boots and myriad hats, and lots of real and faux fur. There is a Parisian-ess of funky, spunky witchiness and putting-on-the-ritzness. I think it is reflected in the black wrought iron, the yawning gothic gorgoyle window sculptures of Notre Dame, and the sketches from Moulin Rouge by Toulouse Latrec.

I have now visited four out of the 157 museums here. I spent five hours at the Musee d'Orsay. Among the thousands of pieces and objects, the museum houses an exquisite collection of Art Nouveau furniture and Impressionist painting. Wow, let me tell you, Monet and Van Gogh just blow every other Impressionist out of the water. One of the temporary exhibitions was of the museum's collection of pastels. Degas- oh la la. Wow. The art I viewed affected me more than I can express in the remaining six minutes of my internet time...

I have also walked for miles and miles and miles. Yesterday on a street I happened to be walking along in the Marais, I stumbled upon one of the oldest houses in Paris, from the 15th century! On Monday I went to one of the flea markets here, Le Marche aux Puces, wandering in the maze of antique stores until I was numb with the cold. Oh the things Paris has thought!- textiles, taxidermy, vintage clothing, hats, jewelry, buttons, keys, skulls, lens contraptions, feathers, shells, leather books, doll eyeballs, teacups, perfume bottles, ivory knick knacks, bloomers, metal green man scultures...

Needless to say, I am enjoying Paris.